Windows Event Warning ID 27 e1iexpress

DKO

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Ever since I clean installed Window 10 Pro (x64) Release Updated later to TH2 (current Version is 1511 OS Build 10586.494) I have got this warning most occasions at Boot up and Login. "Windows Event Warning: ID 27 e1iexpress". It does not always occur, but does so on most logins. A Warning seems less likely IF cold rebooting same day if Modem has NOT been switched off (may be Red Herring). I did try ensuring Modem has had time to initialize itself before booting up PC and logging in but it made no difference if I did this small delay before booting up PC.

Whilst it is of no concern it would be nice to stop them. When I was using Window 7 Ultimate (x64) on same PC I never had these warning (admittedly it used a different driver which does not work with Win10 (coz I tested this).

My Motherboard is an Asus (8Z68-V Pro/GEN3 and the last time I looked (recently) Asus still has made no attempt to bring out Windows 10 drivers for this motherboard or most of its other models (disappointing).

I don't know whether the "ID 27 e1iexpress" warning is due to Asus not bringing out a dedicated driver(s) or not.

Other possible salient facts (happy to offer any others that may be helpful)
1) My modem is a TP-LINK TD-W8961ND (Ver 2.1) Modem (its not currently able, maybe never to cope with IPv6 directly
2) My Modem is connected to my and My Son's (Win XP PC) by Lan cable (Ethernet connections). There is no sharing or connectivity between either PC or with any equipment (each has it own printer etc.)
3) Although the Modem Router is Wi Fi capable it is not used and on my PC Wi Fi has been set to DISABLED

Hopefully someone will know a solution to eradicating/solving this warning.
Regards, Dave
 

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A quick check with my friend Bing Google shows this is typically related to VMWare. You might check out: Event Id : 27 e1iexpress

Thanks for your reply. Regretfully I do not believe there is no connection to VMWare, in my case as mine is a Home PC which is not used as a server in any way and I do not use VMWare (unless Win 10 O/S does, or have any cloud based accounts. I dislike the idea of using the cloud for storage (too much data in a few baskets -hackers or cyber thieves dream IMHO) that I have disabled OneDrive as will never use it. As far as I know the only cloud based services I use are Avast and my malware app that checks their cloud based databases on occasions when uncertain of a file.
 
I dislike the idea of using the cloud for storage
I am with you there. I do occasionally put a photo or something out there temporarily, but I never use the cloud to put any of my personal files or backups out there for "safe keeping". It is not the few baskets thing - it is just that I don't trust any of the cloud storage providers to keep my data secure.

Why do you turn off your modem? Typically there is no need. I leave all my network gear running 24/7/365. The power they consume when all the attached computers are idle, sleeping or off is really negligible.

I don't see where IPv6 would be an issue. And note if your ISP does not support IPv6, it does not matter anyway.

I do note ASUS has an updated LAN driver for your board - I say updated but it is still dated 2012 and the description does not mention this problem. If the date of your current driver is newer, I would leave it.

What may or may not be connected is the fact your router/modem supports only 10/100Mbps Ethernet. I find that odd. Even though the device seems to be about 4 years old, 1Gbps (10/100/1000) Ethernet has been pretty much the standard since 2010. I also note one of the complaints with the device is it came with a CAT-5 Ethernet cable instead of CAT-5e. While that makes sense with 10/100Mbps, CAT-5e has been around many years longer. I only wonder about this because your error seems centered on the gigabit network connection. Your motherboard supports 10/100/1000 (gigabit) Ethernet so I am wondering if there some collisions occurring with your cable/modem.

Because Ethernet cables are very critical, but also not very robust network devices, I think I would try a different network cable just to eliminate that from the equation (even if not the CAT-5). While the vast majority of these Event issues seem to deal with VMWare, I found two cases where replacing the modem fixed it too. Was your modem/router provided by your ISP? You don't have to rent from them. You can buy and use your own. I prefer separate devices - that is, a stand alone modem and then a wireless router. Buying your own generally saves you a LOT of money in the long run. Renting these devices from the ISP adds up to a lot more money.
 
Hi DKO,

Have you updated your Intel 82579V NIC to the latest Windows 10 drivers? While ASUS may not have provided Windows 10 drivers for your board yet, the drivers for most individual devices will likely have Windows 10 versions readily available.
 
Hi DKO,

Have you updated your Intel 82579V NIC to the latest Windows 10 drivers? While ASUS may not have provided Windows 10 drivers for your board yet, the drivers for most individual devices will likely have Windows 10 versions readily available.

HI Xer. Thanks for the suggestion. I have updated as suggested but get the same message at times on startup (only). I hav enever experienced any disconnection when using my PC and it is always working as soon as I try using Internet

I AM confused by the Drivers (old and new) as with each when I hit Update Microsoft says I am already using the best driver for my setup. However the newest update is e1cexpress (e1c65x64.sys) and has several drivers listed whereas the old Driver was e1iexpress (e1i63x64.sys) and that was the ONLY driver listed . I have no idea which is best nor what the differences are between them.

see images (first is new Drivers, second image my previous (which I assume Microsoft installed when I clean installed Win 10 Pro (x64).

View attachment 21850View attachment 21851

Hoping you Xer (or someone), knows what the salient differences are and which I should use in future. Regretfully my knowledge and understanding of Networks and Internet connectivity is minute.

The newer version has more tabs options (when I access the driver via Device Manager which would seem useful. I am unsure what all the extra drivers are (unless they support the extra tab and their functions

Thanks
 

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The newer version is definitely preferable (so long as it's not causing any new issues). With regards to the additional modules listed, e1cmsg is an event logger, and NicCo4/NicInstC are co-installers. The 'your drivers are already up to date' message appears because the way that information is checked isn't very robust. It's not really that it's trawling the web for third party driver installations, but rather, as far as I'm aware, it just checks Microsoft's repository for what would typically be a Microsoft specifc, or a generic driver. If it's a third party device, it's very unlikely that device manager can automatically provide the most up-to-date driver.

As for the error, does the computer still have a wireless card installed? I know you said Wi-Fi was disabled on your computer, but it might be related to the other NIC if it's still installed, even if it's disabled. My other thought would be that if the printers are network enabled and you have UPnP turned on, it could be related to them.

The undesirable response is that it could just be that it's not completing its network handshake before its connectivity state is first reported. Considering it's only at startup that you're seeing this warning , I think this is reasonably plausible. If that is the case, I don't think there's really anything that can be done to avoid the warning.
 
The newer version is definitely preferable (so long as it's not causing any new issues). With regards to the additional modules listed, e1cmsg is an event logger, and NicCo4/NicInstC are co-installers. The 'your drivers are already up to date' message appears because the way that information is checked isn't very robust. It's not really that it's trawling the web for third party driver installations, but rather, as far as I'm aware, it just checks Microsoft's repository for what would typically be a Microsoft specifc, or a generic driver. If it's a third party device, it's very unlikely that device manager can automatically provide the most up-to-date driver.

As for the error, does the computer still have a wireless card installed? I know you said Wi-Fi was disabled on your computer, but it might be related to the other NIC if it's still installed, even if it's disabled. My other thought would be that if the printers are network enabled and you have UPnP turned on, it could be related to them.

The undesirable response is that it could just be that it's not completing its network handshake before its connectivity state is first reported. Considering it's only at startup that you're seeing this warning , I think this is reasonably plausible. If that is the case, I don't think there's really anything that can be done to avoid the warning.


Wow Xer thanks ever so much for such an informative reply :thumbs_up: :smile9:

1) The new drivers do not seem to be causing any issues so far after many hours use of PC over the last day. Only the very first start-up after installation did I have extra (related) Event warnings, but since that first occasion I am back to normal ID 27 message ( except now it refers of e1cexpress instead of e1iexpress:lol:).

2) If there is a wireless card then it must be chips on the Motherboard because I did not purchase one when I ordered parts for my PC (shop very kindly built it for me free as most parts came from it). The Motherboard in an Asus P8Z68-V Pro/ Gen3. I use a TP-Link TD-W8961ND (Ver 2.1) Modem. Its Wireless settings are Deactivated.

3) My son has a printer with his PC and my PC uses a different Printer. Neither are connected to to the network or shared. The ONLY item we share is the TP-Link each of us however has separate LAN cables connected to 2 of its 4 ports.

4) With my very limited knowledge I totally agree with your view "The undesirable response is that it could just be that it's not completing its network handshake before its connectivity state is first reported. Considering it's only at startup that you're seeing this warning , I think this is reasonably plausible. If that is the case, I don't think there's really anything that can be done to avoid the warning". Your suggestion of updating the drivers has proved useful on one matter and led to a confusing test result (tests were not available with my old driver)
a) I can now test Connection and Cable.

Connection Tests (2)
Connection Status: Passed
Cable Link Status : Failed Link speed: 100Mbps. The link partner is not capable of higher speeds

Not sure why this is considered a failure as I thought 100Mbps is best speed I can get with my ISP in Thailand.

Cable Tests (4)
Cable Length S
tatus: Passed
Cable Length: 255 meters

Cable polarity Status: Passed
Cable polarity normal.

Local Receiver Status : Passed

Remote Receiver Status : Passed


Now the 255 meters is really interesting as the LAN cable cannot be more than 2 metres long. I referred to the internet for the meaning and found 2 different comments for possible reason 1) LAN cable is damaged 2) Back 3 years ago this was a known misreporting issue which supposedly was fixed many updates ago. (seems to me NOT FIXED)

Anyway I pulled out three LAN cable I had (all 2 metres). All three were tested by me and ALL were reported as being 255 meters in length (so I do not believe the test comment as not all three can with same issue).
The GOOD thing was that I noticed 2 of the LAN cables were AWG24 and the one I have been using was AWG26. As this meant nothing to me I looked them up and its seems AWG24 has thicker wires and considered preferable over AWG26 (which is usually a cheaper cable). So armed with this information I switched to one of the two AWG24 LAN cables. SOOOoo upgrading my drivers did me a favour and I learnt something.

All 3 LAN cables are marked CAT.5. I understand from reading up CAT 5e is nowadays the cable to use in definite preference to Cat 5. I must admit I was confused about many sites suggesting CAT 5 is not often sold these days because it was CAT 5 cable provided with my 3 year old TP-Link Modem (and the modem I was supplied with by my ISP, which I do not use as single port only). Additionally when I went to buy LAN cable to connect my son's PC ( cable length must be around 10-15 meters I was sold CAT 5 at our local Mall's IT/PC area. Maybe Thailand is behind the West with LAN cabling or, I was not aware to look for CAT 5e.

Anyway I'll keep my eyes open for CAT5 e LAN cable when I next visit the PC/IT section at the local Mall. As it is not Bangkok it may be harder to find (by that I mean everywhere is very secondary in Thailand to Bangkok for getting items/servicing/local agents etc.

Regards Dave
 
EXTRACT

.....Why do you turn off your modem? Typically there is no need. I leave all my network gear running 24/7/365. The power they consume when all the attached computers are idle, sleeping or off is really negligible.

I don't see where IPv6 would be an issue. And note if your ISP does not support IPv6, it does not matter anyway. ....



....What may or may not be connected is the fact your router/modem supports only 10/100Mbps Ethernet. I find that odd. Even though the device seems to be about 4 years old, 1Gbps (10/100/1000) Ethernet has been pretty much the standard since 2010. I also note one of the complaints with the device is it came with a CAT-5 Ethernet cable instead of CAT-5e. While that makes sense with 10/100Mbps, CAT-5e has been around many years longer. I only wonder about this because your error seems centered on the gigabit network connection. Your motherboard supports 10/100/1000 (gigabit) Ethernet so I am wondering if there some collisions occurring with your cable/modem.

Because Ethernet cables are very critical, but also not very robust network devices, I think I would try a different network cable just to eliminate that from the equation (even if not the CAT-5). While the vast majority of these Event issues seem to deal with VMWare, I found two cases where replacing the modem fixed it too. Was your modem/router provided by your ISP? You don't have to rent from them. You can buy and use your own. I prefer separate devices - that is, a stand alone modem and then a wireless router. Buying your own generally saves you a LOT of money in the long run. Renting these devices from the ISP adds up to a lot more money.



Sorry Digerati, I have re-read your post and I should have given you some answers the the above extracts.

Why do you turn off your modem?
My PC is a Home PC and whilst now I live in Thailand and spend every day on the PC that was not often the case. I have always switched off my PC equipment as not a server or needing any connection when used. At end of the day it saves a little electricity and I consider reduces risk of fire. Thailand is a very hot country often ranging between 32C to 43c most of the year and PC equipment gets easily very hot when Air con not in use. Modems tend to run quite hot anyway and I consider it a wise safety matter not to leave not full time. My final reason is that my PC, Modem and Monitor are connected to my APC UPS which is is also switched off at night which allows it to cool it is connected to the power supply and so will recharge the battery if necessary)

Modem, speeds and cable:
My ISP rented me a Huawei single port Modem. It was not suitable for allowing my Son's PC to connect separately to it, as well as mine. I could have paid more to rent a more ports Modem from my ISP BUT I decided to buy my own and TP-Link seemed a well respected and reliable brand hence why I bought a TP-Link TD-W8961ND (Ver 2.1) Modem. I wanted Wi Fi capability (just in case) but as both PCs connected to it, are in same room I always planned to use LAN cables (which I do). MY mistake was that I was not aware of the increasing importance of IPv6 and had I known, I would certainly not have bought that model as not IPv6 capable (live and learn). Now I have received you post and information I see my other mistake was not getting a modem capable of higher speeds (not that I suspect my ISP will be moving to greater speeds any time soon).

I was under the impression (until now) that my IPS was the only limiting speed factor. My modem cannot do IPv6 and TP-Link have not advised they will or are even able to bring out an update for my Modem (and version) to make it IPv6 capable (does not look promising after all this time).

Based on what you have said, when I next upgrade (when IPv6 is more prevalent AND IF my ISP gets around to being able to deal with IPv6 which currently it cannot) I must make sure the modem is
a) IPv6 compatible (which I guess most new models are these days) AND
b) that it can handle 10/100/1000 (gigabit) Ethernet.

Regarding CAT 5 and CAT 5e cabling, I regret at the time you posted these Categories were lost on me due to my very poor understanding of the meaning and subject. As you can see following Xer's suggestion to update my drivers to the latest, I had cause to try to understand CAT 5 and CAT 5e and I see you had given me some really salient information and I apologize for not having recognized the true value and extent of your information before.
If I can get CAT 5e LAN cable it will be interesting to see if that has any affect.

Regards, DKO
 
I would think finding CAT-5e should be pretty easy. CAT-5 was phased out many years ago.

:smile9: You are again correct Digerati. Most of my son's LAN cable is hidden behind furniture the cable and I have only just found an area with details and I was mistaken about its CAT. It is indeed 5e (bought 3 years ago, so clearly easy to come by where I live. SOOoo my much better PC has a lesser 5e LAN cable - can't have that :lol:.

I note the cable I bought for my Son's PC is AWG 24 (like the one I am now using), BUT my cable is thicker (maybe half as thick again). I do not understand why but maybe mine has better protection against crushing, but of course I now understand my Son's being CAT5E will be the superior performer. I note both cables outer sheaves are loose fitting.

My PC's cable details are: INVAX DATA CABLE CAT.5 UTP24AWG 4PAIR AWM 2835 60°C FT4 ETL VERIFIED ALA/TIA-568A-CMIVXC11
My Son's PC cable details are: LAIN YOU COMAUTR NETWORK CABLE CAT5E 4PAIR/24AWG

I think "INVAX" and "LAIN YOU" are the cable maker's name and suspect that COMAUTR was a poorly spelt English translation of COMPUTER


I've just searched the internet and found out what most (maybe all) of these details mean:
24 AWG Wire thickness
60°C - maximum rated temperature
UTP - unshielded twisted pairs
CAT 5 - Outdated Category standard
CAT5E - Category 5 extended
4PAIR - eight wires in total, arranged in pairs (twisted)
TIA - the US Telecommunications Industry Association



I think ETL VERIFIED ALA/TIA-568A-CMIVXC11 on my cable is all about specific US telecommunications standards. I think ETL is for (intertek Listed)
FT4 is possibly Flame Test 4 standard
AWM I think is Appliance Wiring Material so I assume AWM 2835 is a wiring materials type and specification

Learning all the time :smile9:

Regards, DKO
 
I note both cables outer sheaves are loose fitting.
That's normal. Note these cables are UTP - unshielded twisted pair - cables. They are twisted to force the wires to constantly cross over each other as opposed to other type cables where the wires within run parallel to each other. This crossing over is actually done at specific angles to cancel out any electromagnetic interference (EMI) from external sources, and crosstalk from adjacent pairs within the same cable.

The outer sheathing is just to keep the wires within safe from damage while allowing the pairs to move around corners and maintain the proper twist angles. As long as the copper wire is still properly crimped in the RJ-45 connectors, the wires are not cut, kinked or bent (as opposed to gentle curves), they should be fine.

I make my own Ethernet cables. The best two "investments" I ever made was buying a quality crimping tool (after wasting money on two cheap tools that did little but raise my BP and cause clumps of hair to be pulled out) and buying a Network Cable Tester. If making cables only occasionally, you don't have to spend as much as I did on a tester and can easily get by with one similar to this. Cables can look in perfect condition but fail continuity testing due to a bad crimp or faulty RJ-45 connector.
 
Thanks Digerati for very your interesting input. I am sure less knowledgable but interested Forum Users, like me, really appreciate such posts from you and others.


To be honest my need for new cabling for my Home's two PCs is rare, so I feel tester and crimper, although the best option, are not really practical for me AND :huh: I would more likely get confused on which wires go where in plugs, as knowledge is zero on cable making and configurations.

From what you are saying it seems preferable not to go looking of cheap unbranded or unknown branded cables and TO try to buy cables produced by more recognized brands with reputations for quality if possible.

Regards and thanks again,
 
From what you are saying it seems preferable not to go looking of cheap unbranded or unknown branded cables and TO try to buy cables produced by more recognized brands with reputations for quality if possible.
I think in general, looking for reputable brands is a good idea, not sure it would really help much with pre-made Ethernet cables. Crimpers can get pretty expensive and making cables is a bit of a pain ensuring all 8 wires are lined up properly. What I really like about making my own is if I need an 15 inch cable between my modem and my router, for example, I can make one instead of buying a 6 foot and hiding the excess. Or if I need a 26 foot cable, I can make one instead of buying a 50 foot cable.

But even with just two computers, a cable tester can be invaluable. I have seen factory made cables that were bad out of the packaging and pretty sure, IIRC, that was made by Belkin, a brand you should be able to trust. And even the best with sturdy molded ends can only survive being yanked and tripped over a limited number of times. So you might still consider getting a tester to test your factory made cables too.
 

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