[SOLVED] My pc died... Advices?

xilolee

xilolee

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Hi! (no smileys, don't know why... Win7 32bit, msie11)

Is it possible to reuse HDD, ram (ddr3-1333, 14gb) and dvd-rw?
HDD contains win10 x64 license (it was win8 in 2012, then updated to win8.1, then updated to win10).
The slmgr command showed it as a retail license, although that pc was bought (i.e., OEM, right?).

I thought two solutions:
1) re-buy the same or an equivalent motherboard.
2) almost new build:
- gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H DDR3 microatx (24,4 X 22,5 - four ddr3 slots, 6th & 7th gen. - LGA1151) on ebay at 88 euro
- i3-7100 (LGA1151) on ebay at 104 euro
- PSU superflower 550w PLATINUM SF-550P14PE on ebay & amazon at 74 euro
- case cooler master ELITE 342 (RC-342-KKN1-GP) on amazon at 32 euro

Total: (about) 298 euro
 
I agree - we need more information. And for sure, while SuperFlower PSUs are among the best, even the best can have problems. So I would verify power is good before spending any money.

The slmgr command showed it as a retail license, although that pc was bought (i.e., OEM, right?).
Click to expand...
That is odd but it certainly is possible the original license was a retail license. If so, then you don't need to worry about buying the same motherboard (assuming the problem here is a failed motherboard). Retail licenses can be transferred to new computers legally.
 
softwaremaniac said:
Are there beeps? Do you have a spare PSU to test with?
Click to expand...
Before it died forever (?), the machine had these symptoms (not in this order, I didn't think it would be died, therefore I didn't write them all down):

  • 0xc0000001 (and other codes)
  • PFN_LIST_CORRUPT
  • PAFE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA

With the first error (it was numeric), I was able to recover it through bcdedit: it lost the DEVICE and OSDEVICE parameters in the Windows loader section.
It was written UNKNOWN, I re-set them to partition=c:.
Then I tried (i would have tried) an offline scan with kaspersky rescue cd.
But after I updated its signatures, the program disappeared: it made me think it could be the ram.

Hence I also tried to change the ram. But the error was there.

Then I removed almost everything to clean the machine from the dust. But the error was there.

Then this time I removed everything, but maybe I was too violent when I removed the power from the motherboard (it was quite difficult to remove it), and broke it.
Indeed, when I put everything together, it gave that "symptom": the fan started, no beep.

Then I removed everything, leaving only cpu, MB, fan, PSU and one ram stick: the fan started, the beep didn't beep... :)
Then I tried another PSU: the same.
Then I tried to remove the battery for some minutes: the same.
Then I tried to move the jumper to clear the cmos: the same.

Digerati said:
while SuperFlower PSUs are among the best, even the best can have problems. So I would verify power is good before spending any money.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I didn't understand... What power?

Digerati said:
That is odd but it certainly is possible the original license was a retail license.
Click to expand...
I didn't verify the license when there was win8 and then with win8.1, I wasn't aware of the slmgr command at that time (or I wasn't curious enough)...
 
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Sorry if my question may seem stupid, but I don't really understand does the computer boot at all? Where are you at with it? Is SFC clean (if you can access cmd, we can check), does it post?
 
Then I removed everything, leaving only cpu, MB, fan and PSU: the fan started, the beep didn't beep... :)
Click to expand...

I'm afraid this points to the mobo being bad because it should have beeped when there was no RAM stick inside.

At least in my opinion.
 
Have you tried powering it on outside of the case? Were you on the latest BIOS? What was the different PSU you tried with? Did you confirm that the second PSU is 100% working?
 
Sorry, I didn't understand... What power?
Click to expand...
PC power supplies are required by the ATX Form Factor standard to deliver +12VDC, +5VDC and +3.3VDC voltage to multiple points in the computer. These outputs must be stable and well regulated to stay within the ±5% allowed tolerances under a full range of expected loads. And there must not be excessive ripple riding any of the DC voltages either.

There is no way most normal users can conclusively test a PC power supply to ensure it is in full compliance with the standards as this can only be done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, for normal users, swapping in a known good PSU is a tried and true method of troubleshooting used for years (even by pros). If you have access to a suitably sized, spare power supply, carefully remove the suspect supply and replace it with the known good one, and see if the problem goes away. Be sure to unplug from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body BEFORE reaching inside your computer to prevent any ESD damage.

Short of a spare supply, a PSU Tester can be used, but they are not conclusive either because they only provide a small "dummy" load, not a full variety of loads. And they don't test for ripple or other anomalies that affect computer stability. But they are better than nothing.

FTR, I am not a fan of using a multimeter to test power supplies unless you are an experienced technician. To do it properly, that is, under realistic loads, the voltages must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. Testing at the main power connector requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.
 
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Digerati said:
PC power supplies are required by the ATX Form Factor standard to deliver +12VDC, +5VDC and +3.3VDC voltage to multiple points in the computer. These outputs must be stable and well regulated to stay within the ±5% allowed tolerances under a full range of expected loads.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the explanation... But how can I know if that superflower psu is good before I can try it?
I have read good reviews (although it is a 2011 -??- PSU).
I.e., I didn't understand your "So I would verify power is good before spending any money.".
Did you intend the mains in my home?

softwaremaniac said:
Have you tried powering it on outside of the case? Were you on the latest BIOS? What was the different PSU you tried with? Did you confirm that the second PSU is 100% working?
Click to expand...
Yes but id died forever (the fan started one time, then after i removed the power cable and re-seat it, it didn't start... Grace stroke! Not sure if it was gracious...), yes (there weren't bios updates), another working psu, 100%.
 
But how can I know if that superflower psu is good before I can try it?

I didn't understand your "So I would verify power is good before spending any money.".
Click to expand...
Of course, you can't. And until Man can create perfection 100% of the time, there will always be units that fail. You can only hope if you buy from a reputable brand that you will get one that works properly right out of the box.

What I meant was to swap in another PSU to make sure your current supply is good (or bad) before spending money on another motherboard or other hardware. This is because EVERYTHING inside you computer depends on good, clean power from the PSU.

As for your mains, IMO, every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the house and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.
 
I'm currently oriented to get/buy this configuration: asrock FM2A88M Pro3+ and amd a4 7300 or amd a6 7400k.
Those two amd configurations cost (about) €82 or €91 (new, according to the vendor).
Instead a new (according to the vendor) and similar motherboard (supporting ddr3, with 4 slots and pentium g645) costs about €68.

Any thoughts?
 
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I would recommend going Intel option nontheless. Intel is far more widespread in Europe and if something were to happen, you'd be easier to get a replacement. I vote Intel.
 
That Pentium GF645 is a very old, 2012 era, Sandy Bridge chip. However, those AMD chips, whilst 2 years newer, are right near the bottom of AMDs product stack. You're not going to get amazing performance from either, although I think the A6 7400K will edge the pentium slightly. Slightly. Avoid the A4 7300 - it's a 1 core/2 thread CPU which will always perform worse than a 2 core chip without hyperthreading.

PassMark - CPU Performance Comparison


Not sure what it's like in Italy, but here in the UK (and the US), eBay is full of Dell Optiplex machines (mainly the 390/3010/3020 and 790 version), which are roughly 2012-2014 era and can often be found refurbishes with i3s and i5s for around £100 since they're now EOL and companies are getting rid of them in bulk. You'll be able to use your existing RAM, HDD etc in them as they're relatively standard parts inside and spares are super easy to find due to how common these machines are. Obviously it comes with the risk of used hardware, but because there are so many of them (1000+ results on eBay UK for working, whole machines), it's easy to get a deal on them.
 
Thanks Stephen, but I'm still convinced on the AMD configuration.
It seems I think if I had to spend money on old hardware, I prefer it is new, especially given that I would spend less on the new parts.
I noticed there's also an A6 7470k (€60, new, total €107 with the mentioned MB).
I can't see big differences compared to the A6 7400k.
 
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While I prefer Intel too, there is nothing wrong with AMD. And AMD is indeed widely available everywhere. Prices vary by availability in any particular region, but that is the same for any product.

However, if buying a new CPU and motherboard, I would opt for those that DDR4. DDR3 is legacy RAM. DDR4 supports many advanced features, performs better and is more efficient too. You can still carry over your case, power supply, drives and graphics solution to the new system.
 
For the case, I can recover one (although with €30-€50, I won't be scared by it).
For the PSU, I need a new one: previous was 220W and the other one is still working, but I don't trust it too much.
Graphics none, I used the G645 intel graphics (therefore, maybe I don't need it, but I could consider it later).
Then, why shouldn't I buy a new SSD?
Therefore the new machine will cost over €450-500 (without to consider graphic card and without UPS).
No, thanks. ;)
In conclusion, it shouldn't be a new supermachine (the previous was a shared one...).
I found an A8-7600 (€71) and an A10-7800 (€83), and I'm not still convinced of them.
 

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