How to deep cleaning an dirty pc?
- Thread starter Maxstar
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Extreme cases require extreme measures. I've washed extremely dirty electronics successfully in tubs of water too. I note he removed the CMOS battery. A good thing. He also didn't use water on the power supply, or fans.
Oddly, when washing, it looks like the CPU is still mounted to the board. Yet around the 8 minute mark, he's mounting the CPU, so not sure what really happened. Regardless, I would have removed the CPU for the washing part. Not all IHS (integrated heat shields) are completely sealed. Plus, with the CPU removed, you can clean the socket.
I also take my electronics outside to blast out the dust with my air compressor. I never clean out dusty electronics indoors. My nose would never forgive me. Plus, why toss all that back into the air where nearby computers will pull it in again?
I would also use my air compressor to blast out any and all remaining water from the sockets and cracks and cervices after the last rinse. Then, just to be sure, I would leave the board in a warm dry place for 24 hours before re-assembling.
If you don't leave the circuit boards submerged where water can seep and soak in, this should be no problem with modern electronics. In the olden days, they used paper wound transformers, coils and capacitors. You would never want them to get wet. But they are not used anymore. And unless damaged, the epoxy resins used to seal the edges of multilayered PCBs block water from seeping in too.
That was certainly a filthy computer. I've seen considerably worse. Dawn dishwashing soap (what they use to wash spilled crude oil off water fowl and other wildlife) with a soft paint brush works great. And for the record, oily cat hair and dander mixed with tobacco smoke and years of dust accumulation is, by far, the worst. You almost need a hammer and chisel, or at least a good putty knife to get it off. Doesn't help I'm allergic to cats.
Also, I highly recommend the use of a properly equipped air compressor instead of cans of dusting gas. Note I said "dusting gas" and not "canned air". Those cans of "dusting gas" do NOT contain “air” and therefore should never be called “canned air”. Instead of safe-to-breath air, they contain difluoroethane or a similar gas. These gases are typically used as refrigerants and can be extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, it can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to how cans of spray paint are sold to [hopefully] dissuade abuse from “huffing”.
Last, whenever using an air compressor, ALWAYS - as in EVERY SINGLE TIME - use a inline moisture and particulate filter to clean electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes and faces). The compressing process WILL create condensation inside the tank. This condensation collects on the walls of the tank, then runs down to the bottom. Nasty, rusty water particles and other contaminants pulled into the tank can be spewed back out and onto your electronics - never good.
Oddly, when washing, it looks like the CPU is still mounted to the board. Yet around the 8 minute mark, he's mounting the CPU, so not sure what really happened. Regardless, I would have removed the CPU for the washing part. Not all IHS (integrated heat shields) are completely sealed. Plus, with the CPU removed, you can clean the socket.
I also take my electronics outside to blast out the dust with my air compressor. I never clean out dusty electronics indoors. My nose would never forgive me. Plus, why toss all that back into the air where nearby computers will pull it in again?
I would also use my air compressor to blast out any and all remaining water from the sockets and cracks and cervices after the last rinse. Then, just to be sure, I would leave the board in a warm dry place for 24 hours before re-assembling.
If you don't leave the circuit boards submerged where water can seep and soak in, this should be no problem with modern electronics. In the olden days, they used paper wound transformers, coils and capacitors. You would never want them to get wet. But they are not used anymore. And unless damaged, the epoxy resins used to seal the edges of multilayered PCBs block water from seeping in too.
That was certainly a filthy computer. I've seen considerably worse. Dawn dishwashing soap (what they use to wash spilled crude oil off water fowl and other wildlife) with a soft paint brush works great. And for the record, oily cat hair and dander mixed with tobacco smoke and years of dust accumulation is, by far, the worst. You almost need a hammer and chisel, or at least a good putty knife to get it off. Doesn't help I'm allergic to cats.
Also, I highly recommend the use of a properly equipped air compressor instead of cans of dusting gas. Note I said "dusting gas" and not "canned air". Those cans of "dusting gas" do NOT contain “air” and therefore should never be called “canned air”. Instead of safe-to-breath air, they contain difluoroethane or a similar gas. These gases are typically used as refrigerants and can be extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, it can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to how cans of spray paint are sold to [hopefully] dissuade abuse from “huffing”.
Last, whenever using an air compressor, ALWAYS - as in EVERY SINGLE TIME - use a inline moisture and particulate filter to clean electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes and faces). The compressing process WILL create condensation inside the tank. This condensation collects on the walls of the tank, then runs down to the bottom. Nasty, rusty water particles and other contaminants pulled into the tank can be spewed back out and onto your electronics - never good.
I didn't know it was so harmful, at home I have never used it. Only at work a few times (but always outside) to clean heatsinks of laptops which are difficult to dust of with a brush.
I totally agree with that, it often smells so nice and musty too.... The worst thing I've seen inside a computer case was a dead mouse that had half-eaten the floppy cable!
No surprise there. It is not like there is a BIG BOLD WARNING! on the front of the can!
There should be. The warning is there. Company shysters made sure of that. The marketing weenies made sure it is discreetly out of sight. And of course, the common name of canned "air" suggests it is safe. IMO, there should be a law prohibiting the use of the word "air" on these products. They don't use "air" because air contains oxygen - which tends to oxidize (rust) things. Plus, air is much harder to compress into a liquid form than refrigerants. This means the cans would have to be under much greater pressures and that presents a whole bunch of other safety issues.
Fortunately, most of us use these products in short bursts. And we don't stick our heads inside computer cases when using those cans. But still, they should only be used outside - if for no other reason than to send all that dead skin, dust mites, the "stuff" those little critters excrete, and all the other critters that eat that excreted stuff! How's that for incentive to take it outside? And for wearing a N95 face mask while blasting too?
As I noted above, an air compressor works best. I really only use these cans to blast the potato chip and popcorn crumps out of my keyboard.
Yeah, I have also found dead critters in cases. I never understood how they got in there - unless the side panel was left off for awhile. A lot of insects like to chew on cables too - roaches and crickets particularly.
A small air compressor is the way to go. Ryobi even has a battery-powered nowadays.
Add up the cost of the "canned air" and you probably could have bought 2 or more air compressors over a year (if you clean PC's a lot)
Add up the cost of the "canned air" and you probably could have bought 2 or more air compressors over a year (if you clean PC's a lot)
In the Netherlands this product was sold as "Dust Off 67" and later as HF High Flow also as 360 as the ultimate and accurate cleaner. Maybe due to EU-law it was sold as "Dust Off" instead of "Canned Air" or something like that?!
This also applies to thermal-paste shipped with "cheap" heatsinks, silicone and silver grease variants where also toxic as well so far as I know. I was always being made a fool when I wearing gloves while cleaning a CPU with white-spirit (in dutch wasbenzine, a sort of petrol).
The first time you wake up to a flat tire and are able to fill it up with your air compressor instead of changing it, the price of a decent size compressor becomes easily justified, IMO.
I bought mine (and a nailer) when I fenced in my backyard. The money I saved putting up the fence myself easily paid for the compressor, extra hose, nailer, and other tools.
I have used it to rescue my neighbors on either side when they had flats. We have a tire shop less than a mile away so unless the tire is slashed, we can fill it up and drive it to the shop before the tire goes flat again.
I also have used it to blast debris out the cracks in the driveway and walks before caulking, to pump up an inflatable couch/hide-a-bed, and blast the water out of the gears and chain of my bike after washing it. Plus cleaning all sorts of electronics.
I do recommend an upright model - similar to this one for a few reasons. They have a smaller footprint than horizontal models - nice if have a small or crowded garage. I find them easier to move around too (if you don't have 500 feet of hose to reach the neighbors). Also, the outlet is much higher, above any pooled water, and less likely to be spewed out (or clog up the filter).
For cleaning LP's - I use alcohol as well! I Know it can dissolve shellac surfaces, and cause the leaching of plasticizers, but with a good mixture it is safe to use. I hate the KNOSTI fuel, with their resisue on plates....
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