Critical System Shutdown Errors

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

I have system shutdown errors in my Windows Event Viewer logs, I noticed the latest error is when I turned the computer on, I didn't see anything abnormal come up on the screen. Here is a screenshot of Windows Event Viewer.

 

[bassfisher6522]

How are you shutting down?

 

[Tekno Venus]

Discussion about this from previous thread can be found here: https://www.sysnative.com/forums/wi...dows-update-kb2267602-failed-2.html#post80716

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

I shutdown my computer through the charms bar and settings.

 

[bassfisher6522]

Discussion about this from previous thread can be found here: https://www.sysnative.com/forums/wi...dows-update-kb2267602-failed-2.html#post80716

Thanks....

Stuff_and _thangs: Try running sfc /scannow and see if you have any missing or corrupt system files.

How To Use SFC Scannow to Repair Windows System Files

 

[Digerati]

Considering all that has been checked in this and your other thread, random, unexplained shut downs can also be due to flakey power. If me, I would swap in a known good power supply and see if the system holds. You might also test your wall outlets. Every home and computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Walmart.

I don't see where you tested your RAM as requested. You need to do that! You can use MemTest as suggested, or Windows 7 and Windows 8 users can use the built in Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool. Regardless the tool, you should get no errors after several passes.

Note, however, that software based RAM diagnostic tools are good, but not conclusive. So you might try running with just a single RAM module to see if it fails. Repeat process with remaining modules, hopefully identifying the bad stick through a process of elimination. Just be sure to unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in to discharge any destructive static in your body.

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

sfc /scannow didn't find any corrupt files.


I'm thinking this issue is going to be related to how much I have plugged into my surge protector. To start, I have my computer (600 Watt PSU), a 32" TV, Cable box for the TV, Netgear modem and router, and a phone charger usually. It only has six plugins and they are always full.

I didn't get any errors with the built in Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool. I was going to post a picture, but I fail at cropping, so you will have to just trust me on this one. xD

Note, however, that software based RAM diagnostic tools are good, but not conclusive. So you might try running with just a single RAM module to see if it fails. Repeat process with remaining modules, hopefully identifying the bad stick through a process of elimination. Just be sure to unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in to discharge any destructive static in your body.

You lost me there.

 

[Digerati]

Surge protectors are little more than fancy and expensive extension cords. All they do is chop off "clamp" the tops of sinewaves of most surges and spikes. Extreme surges and spike result in the protector (IF functioning properly) cutting power - instantly crashing the computer, potentially corrupting the data (and operating system) on your drives.

Surge and spike protectors do absolutely NOTHING for "low voltage" events like sags (opposite of surges), dips/dropouts (opposite of spikes), or long duration sags (brownouts) - all of which can result in instability and system crashes.

For these reasons, ALL computers should be on a "good" UPS with AVR - automatic voltage regulation. A "good" UPS with AVR will protect all your computer and network equipment from all sorts of powerline anomalies originating from "the grid" and also, from other high wattage devices in your home (like refrigerators, toasters, and $15 1500W hair dryers made in some obscure factory by indentured, often under-aged workers using parts from a sister factory up-river).

And note until now, I have not mentioned anything about battery backup during total power outages.

Another problem with surge and spike protectors is they wear out. They are like motorcycle helmets. If a helmet saved your noggin once after hitting a curb, it did its job and you need to get a new helmet - even if the old helmet still "looks" okay.

A nice 1000VA or larger, "good" UPS with AVR should easily be able to support your computer, TV/Monitor, and all your network gear. I prefer APC. I have a 1500VA APC UPS supporting my i7, 16Gb computer, modem, router, switch, plus two 22" monitors.

I keep saying "good" UPS because like power supplies, there are cheap UPS and good UPS. Don't get a cheap one. They don't have as sophisticated line monitoring or regulation as the better UPS and the resulting waveform may be too "dirty" for the devices connected to them. Also, a cheap UPS may not have a fast enough "cut-over" in the event the batteries need to take over.

As for your 600W PSU, note a computer only draws from the PSU what the computer needs. So if your computer (motherboard, RAM, drives, etc.) only needs 250W, the computer will draw from the PSU 250W, regardless if the PSU is a 600W PSU or 1000W. And the PSU will draw from the wall just 250W, plus another 35-75W due to PSU inefficiencies (energy wasted in the form of heat).

If you think your old surge protector may be a problem, by-pass it for now.

You lost me there.

The fact your memory test showed no errors is good. But sadly, RAM can test good by these software based testers and still not work when put into use. If the tester reports errors, the RAM is bad. But if no errors reported, it might still be bad. So to conclusively test, you need to run with just one stick of RAM at a time, and see of problems develop. If no problems, swap sticks again until you [hopefully] find a bad stick.

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

I'm not too sure with my ability to physically tamper with a computer, and I don't know if that would void the warranty. What is with these errors? Look where it says: Critical, Error, Warning, and Audit Failure.

 

[Digerati]

You would have to open the errors (click on the + sign) for more info. Be sure to check the timestamps though as most of your entries are a days back and most likely no longer applicable. But do not most errors on one-off and self correcting and can happen if your network hiccoughs, you fat finger your password, or any number of temporary circumstances.

This is a PC, right? Note a notebook?

Assuming a PC, it will not void your warranty if you open your case. You have every right to open your computer case to add RAM, another drive, another case fan or for required cleaning of the heat trapping dust that IS drawn in by your fans. Even if your computer has one of those stickers that says "Void if Broken". Those are scare tactics and not binding and IMO, are devious tactics by unscrupulous builders to force users to use their expensive services.

There are ONLY two instances where those stickers (or other similar warnings) are legally binding. (1) If there are NO "user serviceable" parts inside. For example, there is no reason for a user to open a power supply case, monitor case or hard drive case as there are no user serviceable parts inside those devices. (2) If the builder provides full and totally FREE support for the entire duration of the warranty period - to INCLUDE periodic (I recommend monthly) inspections for dust buildup.

Which brings up a point to your comment about your abilities. It is a user responsibility to keep the interior of your computer clean of heat trapping dust and dirt. For this reason, I recommend monthly inspections and cleaning as required.

 

[Tekno Venus]

You would have to open the errors (click on the + sign) for more info. Be sure to check the timestamps though as most of your entries are a days back and most likely no longer applicable. But do not most errors on one-off and self correcting and can happen if your network hiccoughs, you fat finger your password, or any number of temporary circumstances. .

You can export the event viewer logs for us to look at by doing the following:

- open Event Viewer (eventvwr.msc)
- expand the Custom Views category (left click on the > next to the words "Custom Views")
- right click on Administrative Events
- select "Save all Events in Custom View as..."
- save the file as Admin.evtx
- zip up the file (right click on it, select "Send to", select "Compressed (zipped) folder")
- upload it with your next post (if it's too big, then upload it to a free file-hosting service and post a link here).

I don't see where you tested your RAM as requested. You need to do that! You can use MemTest as suggested, or Windows 7 and Windows 8 users can use the built in Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool. Regardless the tool, you should get no errors after several passes.

The Windows tool is very unreliable, whereas MemTest86+ is a much more well tested and reliable solution. I do not recommend the built in tool because it has a high rate of not detecting ram faults.

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

Which option should I select here? I'm guessing (Display information for these languages).

 

[Digerati]

I don't know what to say about the languages.

How did you RAM test?

 

[Tekno Venus]

Choose No Display Language and press OK. I already have English on my computer so I don't need you to export it with the language.

Stephen

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

If somebody would give me a link to a Windows 8.1 compatible version of Memtest, I would run it. I looked at their website but I couldn't find any specific version I should run on my desktop.

Note, however, that software based RAM diagnostic tools are good, but not conclusive. So you might try running with just a single RAM module to see if it fails. Repeat process with remaining modules, hopefully identifying the bad stick through a process of elimination. Just be sure to unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in to discharge any destructive static in your body.

I'm not sure on how to remove RAM. I've never done anything on the inside of a computer before, except remove something following instructions given by an employee of DigitalStorm.

I removed the piece that says "DirectCU II" and reinserted it. (I don't know what it is, It's a long story.)

 

[joeten]

Memtest should not be run under windows you would boot from a disc or usb drive but you would need to access your bios to change the boot order to disc or usb as first boot device. RAM - Test with Memtest86+ - Windows 7 Help Forums and as mentioned by Bill Bright do it 1 stick at a time then swap the stick to the next slot, do this for each stick and each slot.

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

The only problem is, I dont know how to take RAM out or reinsert it, I'm not even 100% certain what it looks like. If I knew how to take the RAM out and reinsert it I would have already done it. Would somebody provide a video link or something showing me exactly how to take RAM out?

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

It took me a while to find a video that clearly explained how to remove and reinstall RAM (for me), but I have finally figured it out. I have uninstalled both RAM sticks and reinstalled, to test my abilities. I am now running the built in Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool on the "Extended" option to see if I reinstalled correctly. After I do this, I will save Memtest to something I can boot directly into instead of the OS, then test one RAM stick at a time.

 

[Stuff_and_Thangs]

I downloaded Memtest86 from this link: MemTest86 - Offical Site of the x86 Memory Testing Tool . (Click download when you get there).

I am in the process of running Memtest86 on both of my RAM sticks separately. I have already ran Memtest86 with both RAM sticks installed and it found no errors.

 

[joeten]

Hi ok did you miss the link I gave you in my last post it had all the info you needed for running and downloading Memtest 86 +, Good job on finding the ram and removing it can you tell us how many passes you did as it is best to do it for at least 7 passes per stick and on each slot.