[SOLVED] Power Button doesn't work

U

UserXYZ789

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May 23, 2020
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So this problem started recurring yesterday, when I tried pressing the power button in my computer it won't start, there are two lights red/blue (besides the power button) it will brighten then fade away, after that no matter how many times I press the power button, there will be no response. Then I need to off and then on the AVR in order for me to be able to try booting it, it takes me several attempts before I can successfully boot. I tried replacing the battery with a new one but I still get the same issue, I have this computer repaired not so long ago as it keeps on shutting down (I later found that the electricity provided by the electric company was low (below 180v when it is usually 220v) that is why me PC keeps on shutting down, I contacted a technician and he said it might be due to the electricity once again however other appliances like the refrigerator is still running without any interruption.

Speccy:
http://speccy.piriform.com/results/1NcJE06ShpmcfHYOFBgGfYv
 
The ATX Form Factor standard for ATX power supplies specifically says for 230VAC mains, the PSU must maintain correct output when the mains voltage is between 180VAC and 265VAC. So if your mains voltage is dropping below 180VAC, that could certainly be a problem.

I think you should be calling your power company and have them adjust the voltage. While your refrigerator and other electronics are still running, these abnormal input voltages have to be putting excess strain on their power supplies and motors.

As for your computer, if me, I would swap in a known good power supply to see if the problem persists.
 
Thanks for the reply. I've already called the electric company and I am now waiting for them to install a transformer so that it will bring a steady 220v. I don't have an extra PSU to try this, so maybe after they've installed the transformer and the problem still persists it would be my best choice to buy a new PSU?
 
A week prior I've also brought the PC for repair for constantly shutting down they did run the PC for 24 hours straight and found no problems, then they told me it must be due to the low electric voltage, so I am only using the PC at late night to the early mornings as the electric supply doesn't drop at those times, but then I've got this problem where it takes me several tries of the power button to boot the PC.
 
Thanks for the help, I've got no spare PSU to try it out. If the issue is still there after the electricity is sorted out, then I'll bring it to a technician to see if I need a new PSU.
 
Please keep us posted.

In the meantime, I had a similar - but opposite problem a couple years ago. I came home one day to hear all my UPS (I have one on each computer and my home theater system) were beeping. Yet I could see the power to the house was on. That was weird. I live in Tornado Alley so I am used to them beeping during power outages, but never like this. Checking the display panel on the UPS on this machine, I saw the line-in voltage was 146VAC! I quickly got out my multimeter and verified that my UPS readout was correct.

It's supposed to be 120VAC ± 10% or a maximum of 132VAC. 146VAC was way too much! I called the power company, told them I was a technician and said if they didn't want to buy new refrigerators, washing machines, clothes dryers and air conditioner compressors (things with big motors) for everyone in this neighborhood, they better get someone out right away!

That got their attention for, without exaggeration, within 15 minutes they were at my door asking to go into my back yard to check my meter. They verified the grid voltage was 292VAC (146VAC x 2). He got on the phone and within another 15 minutes, there was another technician in a cherry picker going up to look at the transformer on the pole feeding the houses on my block. The "tap" on the transformer had fried and it was not long after that we got a brand new transformer. My line-in voltage is now 121VAC. :)

BTW, for future reference every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure the wall outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.
 
I will keep you posted. I don't think the only fault lies with the electricity as I should be able to use my PC at times where the consumption is pretty low however I am still unable to use it at those times. I think it has something to do with the PSU. I am thinking of buying a new PSU, how many Wattd should I get for my PC?
 
Well, it really does not matter what the consumption is. The mains voltage should remain fairly consistent throughout the day as demand goes from one extreme to another.

My fear is the damage has already be done. Even if you can swap power supplies temporarily with a trusted friend or relative's computer, that would be good.
 
When I have this PC repaired last week a good friend gave me his spare PSU (750 Watts), and I am using this PC only at times when there are no power fluctuations (around midnight to early morning).
 
We are not used to these day/night power consumption highs and lows here in the US or at least in the part of Florida I live. Digerati's issue he experienced is fairly rare but obviously , it does happen (in the US). We do have an aging infrastructure but it works pretty good for what it is and does. We have strict regulation and oversight on the grids functioning as well.

Keep us informed.

You are in good hands with Digerati as he is an actual expert on these matters.
 
UserXYZ789 said:
and I am using this PC only at times when there are no power fluctuations (around midnight to early morning).
Click to expand...
You probably are a good candidate for investing in a "good" UPS with AVR. Note it is the AVR (automatic voltage regulation) that makes a UPS so important. Backup power during a full outage is just a minor added bonus.

xrobwx71 said:
We do have an aging infrastructure
Click to expand...
At least in the older neighborhoods we sure do. I live in the oldest part of the oldest continuous town in Nebraska. And as noted, this part of the country is known for severe weather. While full outages are pretty rare, "flickers", surges and spikes happen frequently. That's why I put all my systems on UPS.
 
I've considered buying a UPS but there are still strict restrictions on movement, so I'll have to wait before I can have it delivered to me. I think I'll just wait for the electric company to install the new transformer then see what happens, if the issue still persists I'll buy a new PSU.
 
Love my UPS. Without any sort of bad weather, we lost electricity this week for several minutes. I was able to shut down the desktop computer and printer safely. The modem and router will stay on for a bit over 3 hours.
 
Yeah, I have this computer, two 24" monitors and all my network gear on a 1500VA (865W) APC UPS. If we lose power and I quickly shut down my computer and turn off my monitors, my network will stay alive for several hours too. That means I can still access the Internet with my notebook and other battery operated devices. For those with VoIP (Voice over IP or Internet phone) and no cell phone, this can be a life saving issue.

But again, it really is the AVR that makes having a "good" UPS supporting our computer and network hardware so important. The AVR uses "intelligent" circuitry 24/7/365 to monitor, filter, and regulate the AC waveform being delivered to our hardware. A surge and spike protector (S&SP) is better than nothing, but in reality, it is little more than a fancy and expensive extension cord. S&SPs do absolutely nothing for abnormal low voltage events like dips (opposite of spikes) and sags (opposite of surges), or long duration sags (brownouts) - any of which can cause your electronics to suddenly stop, resulting in possible data corruption. And for "extreme" surges and spikes, a surge and spike protector simply kills power (if working properly) to your components. That's hardly good for your computer, drives, or data.

Surges and spikes occur frequently throughout the day, even with modern "grids". But it is important to note that surges and spikes don't always come into our homes from the power grid. Many come from high-wattage devices inside our homes (or offices). Any major appliance in our home can produce destructive anomalies. Refrigerators, water coolers, microwave ovens, toasters all send surges, spikes, dips and sags EVERY TIME they cycle on and off.

Advanced, more expensive high-wattage appliances may attempt to suppress dumping such anomalies on the circuit – "IF" they are not damaged and are working properly. But low-tech cheap appliances will not. A cheap, $15, 1500W hair dryer made in some obscure factory in the backwoods of China, using parts from a similar factory upriver, comes to mind.

So my advice is to use a "good" UPS with AVR and don't waste your money on a surge and spike protector. If you need more protected outlets than provided by the UPS, use a couple 18 inch spider extension cords. These work great for those big, space hogging AC/DC power blocks.
 
Thanks a lot, I'll try to see if there is an available UPS with AVR at our local stores. I am still waiting for the installation of the transformer (the electric company came to our neighborhood today and replaced the electric poles).
 
Update: The transformer was finally installed but still get the same issue, does this mean that the problem lies with the PSU for certain?
 
Thanks a lot, I've taken it to a tech before and he said the problem might be with the electrical issue but since the electrical issue is already fixed then the PSU might be the problem. I'll take it to a tech to see what is the problem.
 

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