Well, that is not the "official" anything! The only "
official" FX-8320 sites are
here and at the makers sites for the specific motherboards that support that FX series. Now if you can find an "official" KB (knowledge base) article at AMD or Gigabyte, ASUS, or another motherboard maker that discusses those "dead spots" with that series of processors, I would be very interested in reading up on them.
It happened again an hour ago.. My PC shuts down out of nowhere
When pushing clocks beyond published specs, it is not "out of nowhere". You need to reset all your clocks back to default levels, then see if your system is stable.
I checked the voltage in the BIOS and all is well except HWINFO64 is reporting weird voltages which are not corresponding with the voltage i see in BIOS.
Well, without telling us what those weird voltages are, we cannot help with that. I will say that there is no industry standard for sensors. Motherboard makers can put them anywhere they want, or not use them at all. And note it is not uncommon for HW monitoring programs to report "weird voltages" when reading a non-existent sensor.
If your voltages are within the ±5% tolerances allowed (11.4 to 12.6VDC, 4.75 to 5.25VDC, and 3.14 to 3.47VDC) as shown in the BIOS and HWiNFO64, then that is good. But note running the BIOS Setup menu is probably the least demanding task we can ask of our PSUs. Displaying HWiNFO64's results is hardly demanding either. To
conclusively verify a PSU, it must be done on a variety of loads, up to 100% load.
How do i determain that is the cause without having any spare parts or very limit tools to work with? I still suspect the PSU because its completely random and i never had this problem before, it just happened without me changing anything.
You really can't. That's why troubleshooting problems is the hardest, and most time consuming aspect of electronics repair. It can take hours to find the problem, then just a few minutes to actually fix it. This is also why technicians really don't like giving out estimates. The man-hours involved in determining the problem to make an estimate is 90% of the entire job. This is why many techs charge for estimates, then apply that charge to repair if you let them repair it. Other wise, they waste their most expensive (in business terms) resource, their time.
I still suspect the PSU because its completely random
That's another part of the problem because the shutdowns are NOT random at all! It is just that we (humans) don't see a pattern. If we don't see a pattern, we cannot duplicate the scenario
at will. And if we can't duplicate the scenario
at will, it is very difficult to troubleshoot.
Technicians also don't like to swap in parts just to see if that fixes the problem for fear the faulty system will destroy their spare parts. They would much rather use test equipment and bench mock-ups. But good test equipment can be expensive and often requires you to be a qualified technician to use and understand the results. And there just isn't a bench mock-up that support the 1000s and 1000s of different motherboards out there repair shops may encounter. Even the factories retool their mock-ups for different models once production of that particular model (or its warranty) ends.
So swapping in known good spares is really the only course of action left for many techs and enthusiasts alike. So again, I recommend you reset all clocks and setting to the defaults, then borrow a PSU from a trusting friend or family member and see how your computer works.
You should also test your RAM. I recommend
MemTest86. Allow the diagnostics to run for several passes or even overnight. You should have
no reported errors.
Alternatively, Windows 7, 8 and 10 users can use the built in
Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool.
Note, however, that software based RAM diagnostic tools are good, but none are conclusive. So you might try running with just a single RAM module to see if it fails. Repeat process with remaining modules, hopefully identifying the bad stick through a process of elimination. Just be sure to unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in to discharge any destructive static in your body.
Going back to what I said before, note to
conclusively test your RAM, you need to use sophisticated and
very expensive test equipment, like this
$4,000 Eureka Express DDR3 DIMM Memory Module Tester. Obviously these are something only very large repair facilities can afford. So again, risking damage, swapping in spare RAM is often the only recourse even for many techs in smaller shops.
In case this is heat related (perhaps a component that does not have a sensor), you could also try opening the side panel and blasting a desk fan in there.
I am still concerned your system is drawing so much power (65W) when the system is shutdown, and in standby mode. Your 65W in at least 3 times higher than it should be. I just did some testing with my computer using the power meter on my UPS to measure power consumption. I "shutdown" the computer and saw that I am drawing about ~16W. I booted completely then put the computer to sleep. I use and recommend "Hybrid" sleep mode for all PCs (not notebooks). Windows "hybrid" sleep mode is ideal for PCs - especially those with UEFI BIOS and DDR4 RAM, which this computer has. When in Sleep mode, my UPS shows just 18W of power is being consumed. That extra 2W is due to some data is being maintained in my RAM using the "low voltage" state DDR4 supports to allow for faster wakes.
Note too, some of that 18W comes from my modem, wireless router and 4-port switch which are also protected by my UPS. All other connected devices in the house were turned off for this test to minimize power demands on those network devices. So in reality, I suspect my actual computer power consumption when shutdown and in standby mode would be closer to 5W, or even less considering the power adapter rating for my wireless router alone is rated at 12W!
Power consumption of DDR3 in standby can be expected to be a bit higher than DDR4, but not a lot more. And certainly, when the computer is shutdown and the PSU is only providing a very minimal amount of +5Vsb standby voltage, the power consumption should be near nothing, not 65W.
So this could be the PSU, or something in the computer pulling power when it shouldn't. You could use one of those testers I noted above to power up the PSU out of the computer then use your kill-a-watt meter to see what is doing. You could also use the "
paper-clip" method. I don't really like this method because it puts zero load on the supply and PSUs don't like that. But for this test, it might be telling.
